Pearl Society

Pearl Society meeting Sunday, May 31st

Just returned from throbbing Dubai, intrepid voyager
Heidi Heutel Bohn brings the inside tale (and autho-
rized images) of the famed but seldom seen
Dubai Pearl Museum. In fact, when our May 2008 guest
speaker, David Hampe, was here he said it was nearly
impossible to gain permission to visit the Dubai
Museum, which is located inside the Bank of Dubai.
Guided by its conservator, Bohn was able to access its
incredible storehouses of rare natural pearls, the treasury
of Eastern potentates. Reports Bohn: “I was nonplussed by
the traditional presentation of the pearls. Apparently pearls
can only be shown against a background of intense red
fabric. They were heaped in bowls lined with red velvet.”
Dubai, on the Persian Gulf, was long a capital of pearl
diving. To reclaim the prestige of this long historical asso-
ciation, it recently organized the first ever Dubai Pearl
Congress.  Even though Islamic mores inveigh against
pearl culture, preferring the natural gem, the hope was to
make Dubai a world center of all pearl trade, natural and
cultured as well.

Though Dubai is growing rapidly into a cosmopolitan
hub of the Middle East, it is also concerned with the
maintenance of traditional values. We do not know
whether Heidi Heutel Bohn had to be veiled to travel that
city. Find out when Heidi shares her experiences at the
next meeting of The Pearl Society.

Please join us Sunday, May 31, 2009
3:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.
at the Eve J. Alfillé Gallery, 623 Grove St., Evanston
Refreshments will be served!
Please RSVP Now – space is limited
847-869-7920 or email: contact@evejewelry.com

Mystery of the 30th Anniversary Pearl!

In response to an inquiry, I recently unraveled the Mystery of the 30th Anniversary Pearl! 

As founder of The Pearl Society, I was approached by an individual searching for the origin of the designation of Pearls as the traditional 30th anniversary gift.  

In The Curious Lore of Precious Stones, Dover reprint edition, in his chapter on Birthstones,  Kunz gives the definitive source of the generally accepted birthstone list (p.317): it was approved by the National Association of Jewellers at a meeting in Kansas City in August of 1912, (with small emendations since that time.-ed.)  

But we were looking for anniversaries, not birthdays.  I pressed on. 

Kunz devotes great detail to the story behind the idea of natal and Zodiac gems.  The idea is first mentioned in late Roman times, by the historian Josephus in the 1st century of the Common Era, then by St Jerome in the 5th C.  Based largely on the 12 gems of the priestly breastplate in the Bible, the list went through a number of adjustments, with pearls the birthstone for June, along with moonstone.  

Finally, on page 337, I found a list of wedding anniversary gems, with Pearls for the 30th (the 3rd is linen). It turns out  the Father of U.S. Gemologists, George Frederic Kunz, is the source!   No accreditation, even though Kunz waxes detailed and eloquent about the six other lists in this chapter on Natal Stones.

Here are the 7 lists:
1. The most common, derived from the  Hebrew Priest's breastplate.
2. Talismanic gems derived from the  twelve guardian angels (no pearl among those)
3. A list of U.S. birthstones  
4. A Hindu list of birthstones  (June is pearl, as in the commonly accepted U.S. one)
5. Gems of Weekdays (Talismanic gem: Sunday is pearl) 6. Gems of the Hours (night hours, day hours)         
 
and finally, without any discussion of origin:           
7. Gems of Wedding Anniversaries .. THAT IS THE ONE!

-Eve

Wild Pearls - Keshis

Eve explains Keshi Pearls

First of all, Keshi in Japanese means 'poppy seed'. It was the name given to the tiny pearls found when they opened Akoya oysters in Japan and expected to find round pearls, but the nucleus might have been expelled, and some tiny pearls like poppy seeds formed instead. They are not exactly natural (non-nucleated) pearls since the oyster had been stimulated by man. Perhaps some bits of the implanted tissue had loosened, but they are not  a cultured pearl either, so the name Keshi stuck. Eventually people decided to drill and to string those tiny irregular but pretty pearls, and make them into multistrand chokers, usually not knotted, and fairly expensive because of all the labor.
 
Then, in Australia and Tahiti, when the same thing occurred, the keshis were obviously larger, but still interestingly shaped, and very pretty. Having no nucleus meant all nacre, and often very lustrous – great for rings, earrings, and single strand necklaces, and expensive because they are rare.

The GIA called them 'adventitious' pearls ( wild, or happenstance pearls), i.e., not cultured, but not exactly natural.
 
Then came China. The Chinese were excited to cash in on the demand for pearls, and they did not really care about, or understand existing terminology. So for instance, they looked at the now extinct Japanese Lake Biwa pearls... well, their pearls were freshwater too, odd-shaped, so they called them Biwa too, no matter that they had nothing to do with lake Biwa! Sigh.. what could the world do?
 
Now the Chinese came up with another pearl idea: When they started culturing coin pearls, which have a nucleus, they would harvest the pearls carefully, then put the mussels back in the water for a year without renucleating them, just to see what would happen: well, strange petal-like pearls would form in the old pearl sac, second-generation, or born-again pearls, as they were called in Chinese.   
 
Then someone in China looked at what would be a better name for trade, and came upon the word Keshi. At first, the rest of the world was resistant: real Keshis were formed differently, they occurred in the original production cycle INSTEAD of the original pearl that was expected. But then they rationalized that there were similarities: both types of pearl occurred without a nucleus, both had accidental shapes that could not be controlled... why fight it? Once again, Chinese dictated the terminology, and so the dealers who tell you their pearls are keshi are just following the (now) generally accepted custom.  If you can't beat them..

A Question of Timing - The World Pearl Forum in Dubai February 2009

For those Pearl-lovers who are interestd, the World Pearl Forum, will take place at The Hotel Atlantis, Palm Jumeirah, in Dubai, February 17 & 18, 2009.

Note from the BlogMaster: Those warm sands still look pretty good from our Wintry Chicago climes, in spite of the current economic conditions. We remain more optimistic, pearls are still beautiful and to be very much enjoyed and treasured, and they can be surprisingly affordable. There is still nothing like real pearls to make a woman look her most radiant! 

"Moon Maiden" pistachio cultured Tahitian pearl necklace  in 18k green gold, by Eve J. Alfillé from her "Antiquities Series".

Wedding Day Jewelry for the Bride

Bridal Day Jewels — Don't let the poor bride spend $500 on faux bridal jewellery for her big day, says Eve Alfillé of Eve Alfillé Designs, Evanston, Ill.
"Suggest taking the bride's (or her mother’s or grandmother's) diamond studs and attaching them to long fine chains or to straight 20-gauge wires as drop earrings for the wedding day, perhaps set in a bezel rather than prongs.

Then after the wedding, the bride can come in to have the chains shortened at no charge, as your gift to the couple." She advises creating jewellery that is convertible because there is life after the wedding. "Even if she opts for a ready-made pair of earrings, suggest making them convertible, with dangles that detach. If she is going to wear her diamond studs, you can make her wonderful drops to add to them.

Remind her that a wedding is theatre, and people need to see her from a distance. Similarly, if the bride is going to wear her mom's pearls, tell her they will look more up-to-date with a delicate enhancer of pavé diamonds, or the addition of a South Sea pearl in a matching shade. Suggest incorporating the groom's birthstone somewhere in the piece."

Alfillé says families often come up with odd leftover diamonds or other smaller gems from various sources that can be used to create a new heirloom.
"Have the bride and her family put each little diamond in a small bag labeled with the name of the person in the family it comes from. You can create a special bangle for the bride to wear at the wedding, with each of these stones set into it. No need to set them symmetrically if the stones are all different – that is the charm of the piece. Then suggest having the name of each donor in the family engraved on the back near its stone – a keepsake to pass on for generations."

"And remember, that pearls look wonderful on a bride. And, with today's wide array of different pearls available, there is something for every bride, and every budget! And, in addition to making the bride look radiant, they also photograph beautifully!

Pearl Lore: Mustica's & the Nine Pearls

“Mustika’s” (Magic Jewels in Javanese)
Humankind has forever been fascinated by the seemingly mysterious apparition of pearls. We reserve the word ‘pearl’ exclusively for nacreous concretions formed inside molluscs, whether from oceans or lakes and rivers, but it was not always so.

In India, since earliest times, one of the ancient sacred texts referred to the Nine Beads (Nava Moti): the Oyster Pearl, Conch Pearl, Cobra Pearl, Boar Pearl, Elephant Pearl, Bamboo Pearl, Whale Pearl, Fish Pearl and Cloud Pearl. While the first two are familiar, the others, referred to as Mustika, the Javanese word for “magic jewel”, describes unusual pearl-like objects sometimes found in animal or plants, which often assumed magical powers in the popular imagination.

They may assume the shape of regular oyster-pearls and tumbled stones or in unusual shapes and sizes. In their unpolished state they have a rough texture. Nature forms these pearls in the bodies of diverse animals, plants and fruits. They are unusual creations that may correspond to human cysts and tumors, and Indonesia is noted for producing many varieties.

Akin to these unusual formations are Bezoars, a type of calculus found in the intestines of certain animals.

Bezoars were formerly sought after because they were believed to have the power of a universal antidote against any poisonous substance. It was believed that a drinking glass which contained a bezoar set within would neutralize any poison poured into the glass. The word “bezoar” ultimately comes from the (Persian) pâdzahr, “protecting against poison.”
In the popular Harry Potter series, bezoars are referenced as a cure for most poisons and are even used to save a character from poison.

Many people attribute strong mystical qualities to these unusual “pearls” which some say have also been found in the bodies of saints and holy people . This, they say, might be an indication that animal and plant pearls are the manifestation of an organism’s highest energy crystallized and formed out of aspiration to a higher evolutionary level.

Some offer methods for determining whether a mustika is real or a fake, including looking at the following 3 points:
The Energy Present:  When a pearl is held between the thumb and forefinger, as the breath is held, energy would be felt as issuing forth from it. The longer it is held the stronger will the energy be palpable. The energy would run through one’s arm and finally reach the heart or to one of the other chakras within the body depending upon its quality. Fakes do not give such sensations.

The Presence of an Elemental Spirit:  Each and every one of the mustika pearls have an indwelling elemental spirit – fakes do not have them. The presence of the spirit may be felt and communicated with by a psychic.

The Medicinal Properties:  Without exception, all mustikas have vibrational healing virtues which may be tapped into. Again, fakes do not possess such power.

The Nine Pearls: What might they be?
While Oyster and Conch pearls are known and valued to this day, one is left to wonder how a mythology grew around such unusual objects as Fish, Whale, Elephant, Boar, Cobra, Bamboo, and Cloud “’pearls” What might they be, and how are they caused?

Fish & Whale Pearls:  They appear to be natural products of an organic anomaly in the metabolism. A likelihood exists of remains of small marine forms embedding in fish or whale organs in the digestive process, similar to the way that asbestos fiber stays within the human lung, thus creating an atmosphere in which a bezoar pearl could form.

Believe it or not, says Larry Castle, Mississippi’s Chief of Wildlife, several types of bezoars also occur in humans. One occurs in psychologically disturbed patients and children who ingest hair, carpet, rope, etc. He explains, Bezoars are formed in much the same fashion as a pearl in a oyster. An indigestible object is ingested and then layer after layer of calcium is formed around the object. Some bezoars reach a size of up to two inches across.

Elephant Pearl:  Although all mammals can have pearl-like concretions form on the roots of their teeth, only elephants and hippopotami tend to form loose pearls instead of mabe-like outgrowths. Being made of dentine, they do not have luster or orient and, of course they are ivory-beige in color. Like conch pearls, they tend to have a flame-like pattern. The pattern looks somewhat like wet silk. The shapes are typically plump ovals like olives or buttonish-squished rounds. Those who believe in the mystical quality of the Elephant Pearl attribute the following: Attracts luck; improves sales and social life; charisma; personal magnetism; authoritative bearing; healing; wards-off negative forces.

Boar’s Head Pearl:  They apparently are dark violet, marble sized spheres with a partially transparent surface that is opaque at first glance. The pearl suggests a biological process which aggregates deposits of utero ferrin, a purple protein essential to the gestation and post natal development in the boar family, in the head of certain older specimens. As the protein is found everywhere from the placenta to the sperm of adult males, in increasing amounts over the life span of the boar, it is considered a reasonable argument that the Boar Pearl has multiple points of scientific validation as a wildlife by-product outside of strictly religious contexts.

Cobra Pearl:  The largest body of information is found concerning the Cobra Pearl. Most have considered them bezoar stones, which is some cases is inferred from being found in the body of a dead snake where it is covered with a thick opaque adhesion which conceals an inside of often flawless transparency, which appears after being tumbled and polished. Those who believe in Mustikas attribute the following characteristics to Cobra Pearls: Attracts luck; improves business and social life; charisma; personal magnetism; healing; regeneration, and wards-off bad luck & negative energies.

Bamboo Pearl:  The hardness of this “Pearl” is similar to cement or petrified wood, and there are four distinct growth points around a center axis at 90 degree angles. Perhaps the heavy Bamboo Pearl forms within internal joints of a large bamboo stalk, seeded from a small growth incongruity, much like the Oyster Pearl. Believers in their power attribute these qualities to the Bamboo pearls: Attracts luck; improves business and social life; wards-off negative energies.

Cloud Pearl:  This is the one gem spoken of not originating from an animal or plant, but perhaps could have a scientific explanation related to hailstones. The Cloud Pearl has been described by viewers as approximately the size and shape of a chicken egg, translucent blue with a distinct tight spiral running from bottom to top of outside surface area. Heavy like a rock and rough in texture, the inner body of the pearl has a diffusion pattern that appears somewhat like an inclusion one might see inside an ice cube. The observed spiral formations may have a precedent observed in fulgurites of river banks struck by lightning. Lightning hitting sand mixed with fluorite could create a composite of blue translucent silicate complex; some unusual target point may have then been responsible for producing the spiral. In pre-scientific times, such rare manifestations would have been considered inexplicable and possibly transcendent.Variant Cloud Pearls are reported, which are called “Thundercloud Pearls” and “Sky Pearls.”

In ancient Hindu texts, a Cloud Pearl is actually the heart of Vishnu himself, while in another indication it is represented that the flowers of Vishnu’s garland become Cloud Pearls as they fall to earth. Another sacred text, the Brhat Samhita, reinforces the existence of Cloud Pearls as follows: “They say that pearl is produced in the clouds of the seventh layer of wind in the sky in the manner of hail-stones. It falls there with the brilliance of lightning and is taken away (before it reaches the earth) by the denizens of heaven.”

Even beyond the Hindu Vedas, a large body of ancient literature cites legends of mysterious blue pearls possessing magical or miraculous characteristics. One of the most interesting is in the well-known 2200 BCE Epic of Gilgamesh, at a point where the hero Gilgamesh makes one more shot at rising beyond his mortal existence…expending the last of his energy to seek a legendary undersea object that would bring eternal life, health and healing. The translation between western and eastern accounts of the Epic vary on the interpretation of this object: it has been translated as either “plant” or “pearl.”

From time to time The Pearl Society receives inquiries from individuals who somehow have acquired one of these strange objects. Should you be interested, please contact us:  contact@EveJewelry.com

Zebra Mussels as Fashion

Way back in the early 1990's, at the International Pearl Association (IPA) "Pearls '94 conference in Hawaii, Steven Ahlsted took a look at, what was then the growing problem of Zebra mussels in US rivers.  Ahlsted was with The Clean Water Initiative in Norris, Tennessee and his predictions that this was going to be a serious & growing problem, was correct.  He advised that, ecologically they were a serious threat to native freshwater mussel populations and, surprisingly to some, he said they were also a serious threat to the cultured pearl industry throughout the world. 

Photo: A clever soul had the idea to collect some of these invaders, drill and string them as an inexpensive necklace. click on the picture to enlarge it. Photo credit: Matt Arden

The zebra mussel, endemic to the Caspian Sea, was transported to the Great Lakes in ballast water and on the hulls of ships. Zebra mussels were first found in the Great Lakes in 1988, and in the Tennessee river in 1991.  However, in the Netherlands they first noted them in 1973.They are able to colonize very quickly (about 8000 can colonize a single washboard clam and suffocate it) and the females are capable of producing as many as 1 million eggs in 2 years!  In 1994 Ahlstead stated, "This small mussel with zebra-like stripes has the potential to become the most serious befouling post of any exotic species introduced into North America"   Sadly, his words have been prophetic.

Zebra mussels look like small clams with a yellowish-brown D-shaped shell, usually with alternating dark- and light-colored stripes and most are less than an inch. They usually grow in dense clusters containing hundreds of individuals and are generally found in shallow (6-30 feet), algae-rich water.  Apparently they are the only freshwater mollusk that can firmly attach itself to firm objects such as submerged rocks, dock pilings, boat hulls, aquatic vegetation, and water intake pipes.  And, sadly they can survive outside the water for 2 or 3 days in moist conditions. 

These days, those wishing to walk in Lake Michigan need to wear swimming shoes as they feel like razorblades under bare feet.  Looking at the Lake now, it is noticeably cleaner and clear.  This, however, is not a good thing, the mussels are removing all the nutrients in the water that other marine life feed on, as well as suffocating clams and mussels. They clog water intake systems so badly that most Departments of Water use scuba divers to clear off their equipment regularly.  They also cling to the hulls of boats, and in bilge water on ships (which is how it is believed they came to invade North America in the first place.

Kansas Dept. of Wildlife & Fishing has these preventative instructions: 

Preventing Their Spread

Boaters and anglers using El Dorado Reservoir, the Walnut River, or Winfield City Lake can prevent the spread of zebra mussels to other Kansas waters by carefully checking their boats and trailers. Any water in the bilges or live wells should be drained before leaving the lake. Mud attached to anchors or ropes should be removed, as should any vegetation on boats or trailers. If someone boats in zebra mussel infested water (El Dorado Reservoir, Walnut River, or Winfield City Lake), they should dry their boat for 5 days or clean it thoroughly with hot water (~140 degrees F). If hot water is not available, a 10% bleach solution can be used to kill any zebra mussels present. Bait should not be transported from El Dorado, the Walnut River, or Winfield City Lake to another lake. Instead, unused bait should be poured onto dry land. Never release bait into a lake, and don’t take bait from one lake to use in another. Anglers who wade to fish and duck hunters should clean their boots after leaving an infected lake. REMEMBER: it is against both state and federal law to release zebra mussels. Make sure you do not have zebra mussels or water from zebra mussel infested water with your equipment.

About The Pearl Society

The Pearl Society was my brainchild. As an artist, designer and metalsmith, and owner of The Eve J. Alfillé Gallery & Studio (www.evejewelry.com ).  I founded it in 1990 with the first meeting held in January 1991. The Pearl Society was a direct result of my frustration over the lack of knowledge about pearls -especially when compared to the diamond industry's efforts to educate the public about the 4 C's of diamonds. 

I struggled to explain about the different types of pearls, their habitats, farming techniques, and lore, to pass out tidbits of knowledge about the vast and varied realms of the deep, about shallow waterways in the YangTse Delta, about ponds in Tennessee,  the deep formerly azure waters of the Persian Gulf,  replete oysters wintering on lush beds by the Great Barrier Reef,  coves in Indonesia, and more, as I delved into the then hard-to-find information on the real world of pearls of the period.

Let there be light, I thought.  And established the Society without thought of profit, but to acquire and share information.

I invited scores of luminaries to speak: pearl farmers, pearl dealers,  pearl authors,  pearl divers, professors of history, archeology and poetry, authors, researchers, pearl divers, pearl doctors, the  famed gemologist and author Fred Ward,  the late John Latendresse, "Father of the American pearl", and many others. I regularly bring in speakers from around the globe to talk on a variety of pearl-related topics.  The meetings are open to members of the Pearl Society, and we welcome your suggestions for future topics. 

In order to continue searching the world for speakers who make the news and bring these softly glowing treasures to us, we ask only a modest twenty-five dollars (US $25.00) a year which allows for travel, lending library of video tapes and the publishing of The Pearl Society Newsletter.  With your help we can continue studying pearls past, present and future, and their impact on science as well as fashion, and be afforded the opportunity to view the rarest and costliest of their number. 
If you are interested in joining,  please send us your check for US $25.00 made out to Eve J. Alfillé - the Pearl Society, and include your name (First & Last), your phone numbers, your email, your complete mailing address (for the Newsletter) and please include any specific pearl topics you are interested in.

Thank You!  -Eve

What type of Pearls are These?

Dear Eve,
I have been searching everywhere and would like to know if you can help me determine something about 2 pearls I have. They were found about 30 feet under ground while doing construction work, around the lower N.C. coast. Neither have drill holes as these were found in the soil. I am unsure who or where to go about getting a value estimate. I have done the grit test, warming in my hand. Now I am lost as to where I should go. I am estimating they are around 9-10 MM each.
I have attached a photo for you to see.
Thanks in advance for any info you have for me. 9/15/2007.
This is a picture of the "pearls"

Eve replies: I would take them to an appraiser.  They look perfectly round, but i can't tell from the photo what the surface is really like.  I see some  surface sheen, rather than the subsurface luster a pearl normally has, however some freshwater pearls may have a surface sheen too.  I wonder how near the coast you found them?  By the beach, or a former beach?   It is doubtful, though, that two matching pearls would founder onto a beach, so I am thinking that they might have been buried for safekeeping by someone - a bad idea because acidity in soil can damage pearls.

Or they were lost a long time ago, although cultured pearls of that size date from  no earlier than the 80's.  Or they are not pearls, but shell beads.  They do look a little too round in the photo, since cultured pearls are often not totally round, a little more earth-shaped.  An appraiser who knows pearls will be able to  give you much more information if they can actually see the pearls. I sent the image to Richard "Bo" Torrey, Editor of PEARL WORLD, and he comments as follows:  Seriously, they don’t look very “pearly.” Why do people think anything that is spherical, hard, shiny and small is a pearl? Why doesn’t the woman send them to someone for examination?"

When you do find out, would you let us know?  This is an intriguing find!

Thank you

Eve J. Alfille
The Pearl Society

Are My Pearls Authentic? & How Do I Tell?

I was recently given a four strand gold pearl necklace purchased in the Philippine Islands in the 60's. I am questioning their authenticity.

How do I tell? Were the pearls abundant enough then that "Faux pearls" were less frequent?
Thanks-
Catherine

Dear Catherine,

I would also question whether a 4-strand necklace purchased in the Philippines in the '60's was indeed made of Philippine South Seas golden pearls. 

While there might have been a few natural  South Seas pearls available at that time, they would have been very rare, never enough to make a whole strand, and this leads me to think that, if they are indeed pearls from oysters, they might be cultured Japanese pearls from the Akoya oyster, the type of oyster that is cultured in Japan.  After World War II, U.S. servicemen often returned with Japanese cultured pearls they purchased as gifts on their overseas postings.  Sometimes those were quite nice, but generally not very large since the Akoya oyster is small, and the technology of the period did not  often produce pearls beyond 7 1/2 mm.

This  Akoya oyster is best known for its white pearls, but it does also produce light or medium yellow pearls as well as grey ones.  Akoya pearls from the 60's would have been fairly small,  probably graduated in size, with the largest no more than 7 1/2 to 8 mm.

But are they in fact pearls from an oyster, or man-made?  That is fairly easy to know: the simple test is to rub them one pearl against another (you can rub fairly hard). 

Pearls cultured from oysters are gritty in feel, while faux pearls feel smooth when you rub them together.  You can also rub a pearl against your teeth, if you like, and you will get the same impression. 

This is due to the fact that the organic substance deposited by oysters consists of microscopic crystalline plates, whereas man-made pearls are beads of glass ( or plastic) coated in one or more layers of varnish.

Go ahead and do the test; also measure them with a millimeter gauge or ruler.  Do let me know what you find.  I hope this is of help to you . 

If you would like to learn more about pearls in general, you might like to become a member of The Pearl Society and receive the quarterly newsletter.  Dues are $25 a year, and include bimonthly meetings held in Evanston, in the Chicago area .

You might also enjoy Pearl World, a very informative and well-researched publication ; for information contact its editor, R. Torrey, at trd1010@qwest.net.

Thank you for contacting us. If you will be in the Chicago area, you are welcome to meet with me and we can look at your pearls together for more information.

Eve Alfillé

www.evejewelry.com